The morning started with the obligatory stop at the Esk bakery, where we sampled the local delicacies before heading off to Blackbutt.

After topping up with fuel at Toogoolawah, we visited the Exchange Hotel, which was first licensed in 1911. The hotel burnt down in 1926, and locals say that the licensee was so committed she continued to operate from under the burnt out iron roof until restoration was completed.

An interesting fact I discovered was that in the late 19th/early 20th centuries, many pub licenses were held by women. Apparently, running a hotel was seen as a domestic, family-oriented business requiring accommodation and meals, which aligned with women’s domestic roles and societal expectations at the time. Clearly before the feminist movement. 😊 Furthermore, the male-dominated, predominantly migrant populations of the colonies were seen to be more easily controlled by women publicans, who were expected to uphold standards of behaviour and manage the flow of alcohol. 

Leaving Toogoolawah, we travelled on to the Linville Hotel to hear about its interesting history and to partake in lunch.

Dating back to 1887, the hotel boasts a rich history. The region surrounding the hotel showcases the breathtaking beauty of Australian cattle country, teeming with remarkable birdlife, deer, the meandering Brisbane River, and the Rail Trail.

Just across the road from the hotel is the old disused railway station and museum, as well as a popular donation camping area equipped with public toilets. There are 2 powered spots, but you would need to be there early in the day to get one. When we pulled up for lunch, there were many travellers already parked up for the night.

The pub was originally  located between Toogoolawah and Harlin and named the Moorabool Hotel. It was the first hotel in the Toogoolawah district. It was progressively moved by bullock teams as the rail line was constructed.  It was bought to rest in its current location of Linville in 1911 when the railway line extended to there.  It stayed in Linville as the range ahead was too steep for any further relocation.

To add to the excitement of the day, my van had picked up a bit of a wobble and vibration. I thought it might have lost a wheel balance, so when we arrived at Blackbutt, our home for the night, I found a tyre shop. The tyre was suffering from ‘tyre separation’ possibly caused by age and not being driven for some time. Blackbutt Tyre and Fuel changed it over, and after checking the others,  saw that they were all manufactured in 2019. Amongst all the other things I had done to prepare the van for travel, this was one thing I hadn’t checked. Rookie mistake. Unfortunately, they did not have a tyre to fit to replace the spare. That would be a job for the morning.

The Blackbutt showgrounds is a great place to stay. Clean amenities and well set out grounds within walking distance of the shops. Powered sites $ 25 per couple or $13 per single and $10 per single unpowered.

Our pub for the night was the Hotel Radnor, built in 1913 and originally called “The Grand.” In 1935, its owner renamed it after his dog, Radnor, following the dog’s death by being run over by a truck outside the front of the pub.  The hotel has since been fully restored to its original appearance, retaining historic features like the original Blackbutt timber floors and walls, the hitching rings for horses and offering classic pub meals, accommodation, and a welcoming country hospitality experience.  The pub is a favourite for cyclists using the Brisbane Valley Rail Trail.

After my Beef and Guiness pie for lunch, I settled for a bowl of ice cream for dinner.