Trischs Travels

At we leave Portomarin, a bit late after waiting for the pharmacy to open, the trail runs parallel to the river for a while. It was quite beautiful as the mist was rising from the river. Then the climb began. OMG the climb, after the steep descent into Portomarin, what goes down naturally goes up. There is not much I will say about that, except the countryside continues to be spectacular.  Stopping to take photos gives a welcome break.

The trail has been a mix of walking alongside highways which can be a bit daunting to unpaved tracks through the forests.

For a country that generally appears to function at a slower rate to what I am used to in Australia, when they get behind the wheel of a vehicle, that all changes. There are only 2 speeds, stop or death defying. I have been told they are considerate of pedestrians but I am not brave enough to test that out.

Our accommodation for the night was a BNB style and we had the whole house to ourselves for the princely sum of 21Euro ($34Aud) each.  There was nowhere to get an evening meal so we had lunched along the way and carried supplies which we picnicked on that evening. There is one other Albergue and a bar in this village and not much else. The bar didn’t serve food and wasn’t overly hospitable.

We departed Casa Morgade in 0 degrees celcius and despite wearing gloves my hands were frozen.

The countryside is spectacular, and the colours of the grass and flowers are so vibrant. The paths are sometimes quite rough, which can make for slow progress. There was more slow and steady uphill for the first part of the day.  We stopped along the way to take in the scenery, breathe in the mountain air and take photos.

The first view of Portomarin looking down into a valley and across the fields was magnificent.  The all white houses were such a contrast to the stone houses we had been encountering up to now. 

Coming into Portomarin on the last leg of the day was a mix of emotions. Firstly, descending down a narrow roadway and then having the river Minho providing a great chasm between you and your destination on the other side. By the time I got to the flat section of the path, my knees were screaming at me, and my legs were like jelly. It was definitely a physical challenge for me. As I got to the bridge, I realised I had to throw my leg over a rail to cross to the other side. My Aussie friends and family will understand this gives a whole new meaning to ‘THROWING YOUR LEG OVER’. 😂 I wasn’t sure if I should laugh or cry. On the other side was the Liberty Bell. This is a relic of the Roman era when a visitor had to ring the bell in order to be let through the city gates. We all had a turn at ringing the bell just for luck. I could hardly stand and now I had to ring a bloody bell too.

This alberge was great and it was only after I showered and was ready for bed that I realised how amazing the night sky would be. There was nothing here except the alberge, so there is no artificial light. I took some photos through the window, which weren’t the best, but will serve as a reminder.
I had a few hours sleep when I woke to the moonlight streaming into the room. I stayed awake and watched the moon set, which was as beautiful as any sunset.

Before the sun came up I took a stroll in the pre-dawn. So serene and beautiful.
we ventured forth in 0 deg celcuis, ready for another day that we were told would be easier than yesterday. I was to discover Carol, our guide had a different idea than me about ‘easier’ 😳.
There was frost on the grass, my hands were frozen and the scenery spectacular.

Today started a bit late after first breakfast at a Cafe where it appears some staff didn’t turn up for work and the man serving was on his own. Cafe con leche,  Chooros and fresh orange juice for me all for 4Euro ($6.50Aud).

It started to drizzle rain as we left and we were all prepared with our wet weather gear. We looked an interesting looking bunch, I must say. The people here have been so friendly, at the juncture on the road a lovely woman put her head out the window to point and gesture to us to take the right path. I suspect in Australia we would be left to take the wrong path.

The scenery is beautiful, very green and lush with lots of wildflowers emerging after the cold winter. The countryside, in part, reminds me of Tasmania, when you are in the sun it is fine but once you are out of the sun it is freezing. Lots of up and down hills today and a rocky path in places. There were other parts where we were sharing the narrow road with cars which was interesting. We had a couple more stops to recharge with drinks & snacks along the way and I took my time taking in the scenery and enjoying the peace after the last few days in the chaotic cities. I think I could learn to enjoy this lifestyle.

Casa Morgage. Our refuge for the night. We arrived around 2.30pm in time for lunch. Casa Morgade’s history started as a Hospital on The Santiago Way in 1200 AD and now operates as a restaurant and accommodation to Pilgrims on the Camino.

With a solid legacy in agriculture and livestock, the house has been restored keeping true to the original style; built from exposed stone, featuring a wood-fired oven, large courtyards and terraces with fantastic views. Casa Morgade is located in a mountainous area surrounded by lush forests with native trees, including magnificent oak and chestnut trees. There are many unusual and interesting sites within the grounds surrounding Casa Morgade, including the famous “Fonte do Demo” (The Devil’s Fountain) and the Morgade chapel, a place where hundreds of pilgrims have left testimony of their thoughts and experiences during their time on The Santiago Way.

We are accommodated in a new section of the albergue which is quite good. Our rooms are $70 Euro a night (113 Aud). There is an older section with dormitory style sleeping. The view from my room is spectacular and so peaceful. Great company and excellent food.

Yesterday I left Madrid and the tourist part of my trip to head to Sarria to start my Camino journey. I caught the train, which travelled at speeds in excess of 230kph. The speed is displayed on a screen, and I stopped looking at that point and figured I didn’t need to know. The train only went as far as Ourense, where we were advised to disembark. My limited grasp of the language translated that there was a train strike and we would be transported to Sarria by bus. What was happening in fact, was there was a bus strike and the drivers had formed a picket line outside the station. Police were bought in to break the picket line and let the taxis in. We waited patiently for our turn and I really wanted to go talk to the picketers maybe their demands were reasonable, but the armed police made me rethink that. After a couple of hours we managed to get a taxi with an awesome driver who told us ‘he didn’t need to do the Camino de Santiago as he had no sin’. 😂😇 He had a sense of humour and we laughed a bit during the hours trip. Our late arrival meant we were eating dinner after 9pm. Not a good idea. Our accommodation for the night was at the private Albergue Casa Maria’s, clean and comfortable enough for me to get a good night rest.

One of Spains most important museums is Prado National del Prado which has the most comprehensive collection of Spanish art and what is claimed to be the most outstanding collection of European Art from between the 12th century to the early 20th contrary. I have very little formal knowledge of these great works of art, but they are truly amazing to see. We wandered around by ourselves for a while and then did a guided tour. To hear the history and techniques used made it well worth taking the tour. The image below is from online as photography is not allowed where there are paintings. This is possibly my favourite painting, and although you can’t see this in the image below as you move from one end to the other, the painting changes significantly. The deminsions appear different, including the angle the table sits at. There is probably a better way to explain it, but that’s the best I can do.

On our walk back, we found a chocolate shop, who could resist? Lucky for me, I am keeping my pack light for when I start walking in a couple of days, but it was nice to look and taste test. I indulged in 4 single chocolates because it would be just plain rude to taste and not buy.

The highlight of yesterday’s meanderings eventually led me to the Royal Palace.  I was in the company of Christine and Laura, 2 women from the States who will be part of my Camino buddies when we start our Pilgrimage in a couple of days. For now we are enjoying acclimatising and exploring the central part of Madrid.

A little about Madrid itself. In comparison to Queensland at 1,2727,000 sq kms, Madrid province is a tiny 8,028 sq kms yet in population is home to over 6.5M people. Queensland by comparison is home to approx 5,355M people. Madrid city itself covers 605 sq kms and has a population of over 3M. Now I understand the high density apartment living that leaves me feeling a little claustrophobic when I am in the square surrounded by apartments that look so tiny.

The Plaza Major is an interesting place to sit, and people watch and wonder through the many shops, including a shop completely dedicated to ducks. It was relatively quiet when we were there as the crowds don’t seem to come out until much later.

The Royal Palace. Such a spectacular place and amazing history. Coming from such a young country as Australia, it is hard to comprehend the ‘pomp and ceremony’ associated with the traditions and lifestyle of Royal families. Despite that, one couldn’t help but be impressed by the history provided by our very knowledgeable and sometimes humorous guide. Spain was fortunate to have had a number of Kings who had a fine appreciation of art, and many of these treasures are still on display today. Absolutely a must visit if you are in Madrid. 6 euro entrance and an extra 5 euros for the guided tour where you get to see the ‘inner sanctions’, including the throne room. Unfortunately, there are some areas where photography is not allowed.

As I sit here alone in the early morning, I wonder what it is that has driven me to travel over 17,000 klms to walk the Camino. I first heard about the Camino de Santiago over 20 years ago and it stayed in my mind like some elusive dream that fades away and re-emerges from time to time to taunt me. Now after 69 times around the sun I know it is my time. I still have no answer as to ‘why’ and expect that might emerge over time. Or maybe not, perhaps there is no ‘why’ and this will become just another crazy thing I have done. What I do know is that the next 28 days will be an experience that will challenge me and that can only add to my life.

It is 5am Tuesday 28 March. I woke at 2am and lay silently for the next hour allowing thoughts to drift across my consciousness. At 4am I came downstairs in search of coffee. I probably should stop at cup number 2 but it is beautiful coffee so maybe another is in order as I wait for the day to come alive. Sunrise isn’t until 8am and dawn starts at 7.00. The Spanish equivalent of our daylight savings started yesterday so I am not sure if I have it right and I hope my phone and watch adjusted the time automatically.

I have nothing booked for today although there is a walking tour at 11am that I will do and the Royal Palace is only 15 mins walk from my hotel. I need to find a Decathlon store to pick up walking poles and tonight I might take in a Flamingo show. I have 3 days in Madrid to explore before I catch the train to Sarria where I will meet up with Carol, our guide from Camino Confidence who will steer me/us in the right direction for the next 11 days. We are a small group of women from across the globe walking this part of the Camino for the first time. After that I have 12 days on my own and that might be when the real challenge starts. Now it is time for another coffee.

I left the hotel as the sun came up, wondered through laneways and plazas with amazing fountains and sculptures. I made my way to the Parque del Retiro, a magnificent 142 hectare park in the heart of the city and named as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The park is home to the Crystal Palace of El Retiro. This structure is said to be one of the best examples of the so-called iron architecture in Madrid. Originally planned as a gigantic greenhouse to house tropical plants on the occasion of the Flora Exhibition of the Philippine Islands, held in 1887, it is currently one of the venues of the Reina Sofía Museum , which hosts various temporary exhibitions.

The architect Ricardo Velázquez Bosco was commissioned to build it in 1887, inspired by the Crystal Palace in Hyde Park (London), the work of Joseph Paxton in 1851. The building, located next to an artificial lake and surrounded by horse chestnut trees, is covered with large glass plates, and has a ceramic decoration in small friezes and finials made by Daniel Zuloaga.

In 1975, a comprehensive repair was carried out that returned it to its original appearance. Unfortunately for me it is closed until next week so I will need to add it to my list for the end of the month.

Melbourne to Portland return. 

February 2023, Nyesha and I did a road trip from Melbourne to Portland along the Great Ocean Road. The Great Ocean Road has a permanent memorial to those who died while fighting in World War I carved in rock. Built by returned servicemen, it winds around the rugged southern coast and was a huge engineering feat ending decades of isolation for Lorne and other coastal communities. The route was officially opened on 26 November 1932. It is considered one of the world’s most scenic coastal touring routes, spanning 243 kilometres along the stunning coastline of Victoria’s south-west.

https://youtube.com/@Trischstravels1

Hi everyone. This is my travel page and where I will post photos and information from my travels. So if you are interested in following along and seeing what I am up to, this is the place to be. As many of you know it has always been my plan to travel Australia in my retirement years and I will do that but first I am following another dream that I put on the back burner for many years when I let ‘life get in the way’. I am heading to Spain shortly to walk a small part of the Camino de Santiago on the Frances route. https://followthecamino.com/en/camino-de-santiago-routes/

I will have 11 days and 120klms with a small group of women then will venture off on my own for the last 2 weeks. I intend this to be the first of many Caminos I enjoy in my future.

For me I think the Camino Pilgrimage will be a time for reflection, something many of us don’t have as we go through life’s ups and downs. While I don’t think I have any specific expectations I anticipate there will be moments of excitement, elation, laughter and joy and other moments of sadness, loneliness and grief for things past. Whatever it is, I am certain I will be feeling exactly as I am meant to be feeling and I will be exactly where I am meant to be. Life is not meant to be lived in one place.