As I sit here alone in the early morning, I wonder what it is that has driven me to travel over 17,000 klms to walk the Camino. I first heard about the Camino de Santiago over 20 years ago and it stayed in my mind like some elusive dream that fades away and re-emerges from time to time to taunt me. Now after 69 times around the sun I know it is my time. I still have no answer as to ‘why’ and expect that might emerge over time. Or maybe not, perhaps there is no ‘why’ and this will become just another crazy thing I have done. What I do know is that the next 28 days will be an experience that will challenge me and that can only add to my life.

It is 5am Tuesday 28 March. I woke at 2am and lay silently for the next hour allowing thoughts to drift across my consciousness. At 4am I came downstairs in search of coffee. I probably should stop at cup number 2 but it is beautiful coffee so maybe another is in order as I wait for the day to come alive. Sunrise isn’t until 8am and dawn starts at 7.00. The Spanish equivalent of our daylight savings started yesterday so I am not sure if I have it right and I hope my phone and watch adjusted the time automatically.

I have nothing booked for today although there is a walking tour at 11am that I will do and the Royal Palace is only 15 mins walk from my hotel. I need to find a Decathlon store to pick up walking poles and tonight I might take in a Flamingo show. I have 3 days in Madrid to explore before I catch the train to Sarria where I will meet up with Carol, our guide from Camino Confidence who will steer me/us in the right direction for the next 11 days. We are a small group of women from across the globe walking this part of the Camino for the first time. After that I have 12 days on my own and that might be when the real challenge starts. Now it is time for another coffee.

I left the hotel as the sun came up, wondered through laneways and plazas with amazing fountains and sculptures. I made my way to the Parque del Retiro, a magnificent 142 hectare park in the heart of the city and named as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The park is home to the Crystal Palace of El Retiro. This structure is said to be one of the best examples of the so-called iron architecture in Madrid. Originally planned as a gigantic greenhouse to house tropical plants on the occasion of the Flora Exhibition of the Philippine Islands, held in 1887, it is currently one of the venues of the Reina Sofía Museum , which hosts various temporary exhibitions.

The architect Ricardo Velázquez Bosco was commissioned to build it in 1887, inspired by the Crystal Palace in Hyde Park (London), the work of Joseph Paxton in 1851. The building, located next to an artificial lake and surrounded by horse chestnut trees, is covered with large glass plates, and has a ceramic decoration in small friezes and finials made by Daniel Zuloaga.

In 1975, a comprehensive repair was carried out that returned it to its original appearance. Unfortunately for me it is closed until next week so I will need to add it to my list for the end of the month.